TRAVIS' TRAVEL TIPS
Captivating Caribbean
Part Three of Four
"Sultry St. Martin"
In my last article, I discussed the Dutch West Indies, with special attention to quaint Curacao. This month our travels transition perfectly between the Dutch and French West Indies, as we discuss the Caribbean island of Saint Martin. The relatively small island is actually two nations in one. The southern side of the island (known as Saint Maarten) forms part of the Netherlands Antilles. The other half (called Saint Martin) is French. Tourists can easily pass from one side to the other without formality.
Both sides of the island can rightfully boast spectacular beaches, fabulous resorts and world-class cuisine. But there is a marked difference, I think, between them. Driving around the Dutch side, goats seem to rule the parched and hilly landscape. The French side is more developed, commercial, chic.
Fortunately, I'm myopic, so I haven't really seen the clothing optional beaches on the French side, though I may have passed right by them. In that regard, I prefer the more conservative Dutch side. But at the sidewalk cafes, boutiques and open-air markets of Marigot, the capital of the French side, one experiences a very special joie de vivre. One of my favorite activities is to sit at Vie En Rose outdoor cafe, after combing the shops on the waterfront, and simply soaking in the tropical sun and lively Caribbean colors.
Philipsburg, the capital of the Dutch side, has a more historic, colonial-era feel. The image is more of forts, flags and statuary. Front Street is its main shopping district. Both sides are popular duty free ports for jewelry, liquor, electronics, but also art and designer clothes. Shopping aside, it is the beaches that are really worth exploring on the island. I have rarely seen clearer and more beautifully-hued blue and green waters as on the island. Each bay seems prettier than the last.
You'll definitely want to spend as much time possible sailing, snorkeling or deep sea fishing. These activities can be arranged through your hotel or cruise line. There are also adventure hikes and a trip to a butterfly farm. What I don't recommend is a submarine which allows you to look at the sea creatures by submerging slightly into the water if you happen to be claustrophobic, as I am.
While I am unfamiliar with their services, I found a site offering island tours, which gives an idea of the possibilities. This page briefly describes scenic hikes and where you can enjoy panoramic views of neighboring islands: This site describes St. Martin's top beaches:
I always like to include a small anecdote about my travel experiences. About twenty years ago, I stayed at a resort on a gorgeous, secluded bay on the Dutch side. I won't mention names, since I'm sure that the hotel has changed a lot since then. But it took me a while after arriving to stop laughing. For one thing, I got there all dressed up, thinking I was going to a fancy resort. Hotel staff and guests in laid back beachwear stared at me in the reception area as if I belonged to a strange species. And far from the air-conditioned suite I envisioned, our room turned out to be a rustic little hut, seemingly put together with twigs.
Completely out of sync, we also kept missing the established meal times, because we were out sightseeing. Fortunately, the resort had a poolside cantina, which served during the off-hours. We finally made it to dinner on time on the last night of our stay. I almost cried when I tasted the food, it was so delicious. I regretted not having been more punctual during the stay, although it did seem overly regimented.
The island, both French and Dutch side, is known for its fine dining. It's said, in fact, that nouvelle cuisine was "invented" in Grand Case. If it wasn't, it should have been. See Frommer's for dining suggestions.
After dinner, St. Martin's many casinos and nightspots will keep you entertained. Frommer's gives an overview, but check with your hotel concierge for what's "in" and what's not. Carnival time in St. Martin, roughly the last two weeks of April, is a fun time of the year to visit. Keep in mind that hurricane season in the Caribbean is from June 1-November 30th, peaking from August-October.
The major airport (Princess Juliana International Airport) is also on the Dutch side. On the French side, a smaller airport accommodates light planes and island-hoppers. Arriving passengers must have a valid passport and be prepared to state the hotel or local address where they will be staying on the immigration form.
From points around the island, ferries will take you to neighboring islands, such as Saba, Anguilla and St. Barth's.
In my next article, we'll visit one of my favorite islands in the British Virgin islands and some up some of the differences between the Caribbean islands.
MARIE DELGADO TRAVIS is an award-winning writer. She writes poetry and prose in English and Spanish. Visit her web site at www.mariedelgadotravis.com.
