"ROMANTIC ARANJUEZ"
For Valentine's day, I wanted to select one of the most romantic places I've ever visited. A difficult task, because so many places in the world are worthy of that honor. I finally selected a charming little town in Spain, royal Aranjuez.
Aranjuez is located about 30 miles south of Madrid. It's about a one hour train ride from Atocha station in Madrid, making it a delightful day trip. For schedules, see http://horarios.renfe.es. You may have to choose "other destinations," because it probably won't appear on the main pull-down menu.
Madrid, of course, is Spain's capital and site of the Palacio Real or Palace de Oriente. This magnificent palace, one of the largest in Europe, with stately gardens and over 2,000 opulent rooms, is now used for official functions only. At one time, however, it was the official residence of Spain's monarchs. Diego Velazquez (1599-1660), for example, painted his famous painting, 'Las Meninas" (Prado Museum, Madrid) there.
Aranjuez was where the Royals went to "get away from it all"--their summer palace or weekend get-away. As such, it is a miniature palace--and a delightful treasure indeed--baroque to rococco, fanciful and eclectic. Construction on the Palacio Real de Aranjuez began in 1561, with some of its lovelier features, e.g. Turkish and Chinese (Porcelain) Rooms and Hall of Mirrors dating from the 18th Century. There is a wonderful collection of clocks and the ceilings, chandeliers, paintings, even the wall fabrics, are sights to behold.
The palace's surrounding gardens (Jardin del Principe, Jardin de la Isla and Jardin del Parterre) are equally impressive, with their exotic flora, roses in particular, sculptures and fountains dedicated to Hercules, Apollo, Venus, Diana, Bacchus, Ceres and the Nereids.
On the premises, there is also a "Casa del Labrador" (House of the Laborer), which is nothing like its name would suggest. It is a small neoclassical palace built on the site of a farmhouse in the late 18th to early 19th Century. It is currently under renovation, so visits may be limited and entrance fees adjusted accordingly. A museum dedicated to the recreational ships used by the Royalty is also nearby.
On special holidays, such as May 30 (Feast of San Fernando) and September 5 (Fiesta del Motin), the Royal Palace is closed. Practical information on hours, calendar, entrance fees and discounts may be found at www.turismomadrid.es/
Aranjuez is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (Cultural Landscape). See http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1044. Because Aranjuez is situated at the confluence of the Tajo (Tagus) and Jarama Rivers, its land is very fertile. The white and green asparagus and small and large strawberries (fresa and freson) cultivated there are delicious treats.
Among the tourist attractions are a "Strawberry train," a Bullfighting Museum, lovely churches and chapels. Sabatini's Convento de San Pascual is particularly picture worthy. Tree-lined esplanades and tiny plazas are a lover's paradise. Indeed, one of the plazas is called "Plaza de las Parejas" (Couples' Plaza). Walking tours are often led by local tourist guides called "las chicas en amarillo" (literally, the girls dressed in yellow). The tourist office is located at Plaza de San Antonio 9 (office hours: 10 AM - 6 PM daily).
Aranjuez is very tourist-friendly and the ideal setting for romance. One of my fondest memories is sitting at an outdoor cafe in Aranjuez as a young university student. A recent trip inspired a humorous poem, "El Poeta de Aranjuez," available in my award-winning bilingual collection of poetry, LA VENTANA / THE WINDOW.
A much more sublime rendition of the town's beauty is Joaquin Rodrigo's musical masterpiece, CONCIERTO DE ARANJUEZ. My favorite versions are by the London Symphony Orchestra (Sir Andre Previn, conductor, Angel Romero, Lead Guitarist) and the Academy of St. Martin in the Fields (Sir Neville Marriner, Conductor, Pepe and Angel Romero, Lead Guitarists). Rodrigo's melody has also been popularized in song by Jose Carreras, Sarah Brightman and Andrea Boccelli, among others.
There is no shortage of restaurants and tapas bars in Aranjuez. A couple of restaurants have won awards in the past, e.g., Casa Jose, Carretera de Andalucia, 17 (one Michelin star, 2006) and Casa Pablo, Almibar 42 (Bronze Medal, 2000). La Rana Verde (The Green Frog), and Rincon de Godoy, m also have websites, which is always helpful. I would simply look for a place with "ambiente" (ambience)--a friendly, crowded place that serves the locals, rather than tourists.
MARIE DELGADO TRAVIS is an award-winning writer. She writes poetry and prose in English and Spanish. Visit her new web site at www.mariedelgadotravis.com.
